PLACES TO GO!
Mafia Island
The sea enveloping Mafia Island is like mysterious lover. Serene on the
surface, it hides in its depths and exciting drama of marine life. It has the
kind of fascinating charm that haunts forever.
The flight begin from Dar es salaam and in 30 minutes arrives on an
airstrip surrounded by blindingly lush greenery.
Mafia has a rich history going back 2,000 years. It was the centre of
Shirazi influence during the 12th to 15th centuries AD.
The rich of inhabitants of Kisiwani and Mafia and Kuya were the Shirazis,
indicating a lineage of the first Sultan of Kilwa. Elders relying on oral
history say that in 1817, the Sakalava from Madagascar ravaged Kua on Juani
Island, and in turn they were ousted by the Oman Arabs. Of the ruins found in
Mafia are those at Kisimani Mafia and Kua ruins. During World War I, Mafia was
used by the British forces as a base.
Chole bay, Mafia’s protected deep-water anchorage and original harbour, is
studded with islands, sandbanks and beaches. The waters are paradise for
divers, snorkelers, swimmers and sailors. Outside the bay, an unbroken reef
runs along the length of the island from Tutia in the south to Ras Mkumbi in
the north.
The main drawn card for visitors to the island is the Marine Park, the
first in the country and open since July 1995. At sq 51800 kms, it is one of
the largest marine protected areas in the Indian Ocean and has been recognized
as the centre of the biodiversity in eastern Africa for its profusion of
corals, fish, turtles, mangroves, sea grass beds and coastal forest. About
10,000 people live inside the marine park boundary and derive their livelihood
from fishing, seaweed framing, boat and house building. The entry fees from
visitors are used for the development of the park.
Scuba divers and snorkelers come from all over the world to see the
veritable riot of under creatures. Mafia’s best diving is at depths less than
30 m where you can see some kind of tropical marine habitats, including exposed
fringing reefs, rock walls, soft coral and algae dominated reefs. Large
predatory fish and turtles are common. Diving in Chole Bay is amongst the most
spectacular in the world and includes colourful coral gardens, walls at various
levels, and many shelves and coral heads.
One of the best fishing areas in the world, the waters boasts over 400
species, Lionfish, butterfly fish,, clownfish, Napolean wrasse, kingfish,
rainbowfish, groupers, rays, sharks, dolphins, triggerfish, parrotfish,
barracuda, marlin, sailfish, eels and tuna are commonly sighted. The waters are
home to several species of marine turtles and about 50 types of hard coral. Some
of the best dive sites in Choe Bay are Mlimani (Coral Gardens), Coral Wall,
Kinasi Wall, Kinasi Express, Pinnacle and Kinasi Pass. Dive sites outside Chole
Bay include Dindini Wall, Jina Pass, Jina Reef, Kinasi Pass Entrance, Mange
Reef and Kitutia. Chole Bay is also home to more than 116 species of birds.
Mafia Island Lodge is idyllically set on one of the best beaches of the
island. A haven of privacy amid lush greens, it is ideal from those seeking
relief from the fury of the city life. The interiors of the lodge reflect the flavor
and character of island and soothe the weary traveler just as the friendly and
attentive staff.
After warm words of welcome from my perfect hostesses Nadia and Milena, a
refreshing drink of sweet coconut water, and an exchange of greetings with the
other guests, I was led to my room. The guest had 36 comfortable rooms, nestled
among coconut palm and overlooking the bay. The rooms are self contained with
air conditioning, electricity and ensuited bathroom with hot and cold water. Twin
and double beds are available.
After a refreshing shower, I strolled back to the reception lounge and
settled into a cosy chair in the large terrace facing the Ocean to relax,
unwind and feel the tranquility of the island. Wrapped up in the charm of the
setting sun dissolving into the shimmering waters, I watched, enchanted.
In the warm grow of the mellow lights; I started to flip through a magazine
on a marine life. Later in the evening, I was introducing to moist kasha, the
manager of the lodge’s dive centre, a dive instructor and an encyclopedia on
every aspect of the island. For information on guided tours and services
offered by the lodge.
Mafia Island Lodge offers a variety of interesting excursions, snorkeling
and diving the colourful reef are the most favoured activities by the guests;
equipment is available from the Lodge’s fully equipped PADI certified dive
centre, Mafia Island Sea point. A picnic lunch is possible on the marimbani
sandbank, about 20 minutes by boat. A 30 minute boat ride takes you to the Kua
ruins in Juan island (also famous for turtle-hatching) while a 10 minute boat
ride to Chole Island offers a walk through the ruins of Arabs buildings the
shipyard, village and colony of Comores bats. Sailing along the Juani channel
provides the opportunity of prolific bird-watching. Kitutia/Mange sandback and
reef reachable in about an hour and a half during low tide is the ideal spot of
swimming sunbathing and snorkeling. On the way back from Kitutia, it is
possible to pass through Jibondo Island for a village walk through baobab
trees. A dairy excursion by car passes through the village to the lighthouse at
the northern tip of the island can be organized; this culminates in a picnic
lunch at Kanga beach. 30 minutes by boat is Fisherman Island, good for
snorkeling followed by a picnic lunch. The most romantic excursion is the
Marimbani sundowner, a sunset cruise of about 20 minutes. Nature walks through
the village provide interesting insight into village life. For the more
daunting, swimming with the whale sharks can be a thrilling experience. Fishing
trips can be arranged using traditional dhows. A jeep tour to Kilindoni (the
capital city of mafia), the marketplace, fish market harbour, lighthouse and
Kanga beach is another option. Transfers all over the island can be done on
request.
I booked myself for the Chole Island tour, before being shown to a table
reserved for me in the adjacent dining room. I shared my table with a teacher
from Italy and an auditor from Switzerland and an interesting cross-cultural
conservation ensued over delicious Swahili and Italian delicacies. Cuisine at
the Lodge is Continental with an emphasis on seafood. The bar serves a range of
quality wines, beer juices and sodas. A cool breeze whispered through the hall
as we finished our coffee.
Post dinner, I strolled down to the beach noticing I was the only one
there, I felt supreme solitude. The light of the full moon and the mist from
the sea created a trace like atmosphere. I closed my eyes and breathed in
deeply the perfume air of unseen secret blooms and embraced this nostalgic
experience.
I woke up next morning to an all pervading hush except for the soft murmur
of the sea. I walked down to the beach bar and dug my feet into the sand that
was gently warming up to the caress of the sun. As I looked out at the
aquamarine expanse, dark clouds drew curtains across the sky and a short spell
of light drizzle followed. The fresh, salty scent of the sea, the visual feast
of limitless blue and spray of raindrops kissing my face…. I considered myself
privileged and enjoyed such beauty humbly
After breakfast, my guide to Chole Island led me to a small boat that took
us across in ten minutes. I stepped into a past era of merchants and slaves as
the guide took me on a heritage walk through the island.
After the fall of the Kua during the 15th century, Chole emerged
as Mafia’s most important city. Slavery was on the rise and slave owners, most
Mashatiri Arabs, built large stone houses, wells and mosques and settled in
Chole. There were also some Indian merchants and shopkeepers at the same time.
In 1890, the British traded Mafia to the Germans and Chole came under their
control. The shallow water of Chole came under their control. The shallow water
of Chole and the danger entering the bay through Kinasi Pass prevented big
ships from easy entry and exit. As the result, the Mafia administration centre
was moved t Kilindoni causing the population of Chole to disperse and the city
to die. In 1961, when Tanganyika gained independence, the vacant land on Chole
was free to be farmed and this set the stage for people to return.
The one and a half hour walk started with an Arab house and prison. The
building still retains a carved recess on the left wall. Behind it is a well
preserved Muslim cemetery with engraved head-stones.
We followed the pass though coconut groves interspersed with cashew nut
trees. I savoured the charm of the simple village and a warm but pleasant
breeze. On the east end of the island is a boatyard with a long history of boat
building. The craftsmen worked in the shed, giving fishing touches to fishing
and trade vessels made out of mangrove wood. Outside, under the shade of huge
baobabs, fishermen sat weaving fishing nets. The heat of the day didn’t seem to
bother them and they appeared completely engrossed in what they do for a
living. It was a slow paced, relaxed sleepy setting, a reflection of Mafia’s identity.
We headed to Popo Park, the world’s first park established for the
conservation of the fruit bat. Numerous Comores frying foxes, as they are
called, hung upside down for the large trees awaiting their nocturnal visit for
fruits and flowers.
As we rounded the tour, we stopped at the local dispensary, the primary
school and small plots of land cultivated with banana, orange and sweet potato,
cassava and seaweed.
The last stop before boarding the boat back to the lodge was customs house
built by Arab administrators in the 19th century. Slave auctions are
said to have taken place behind it, when the Germans took over, the building
served as a customs house of administering local trade and shipping.
Back at the lodge, I had enough time to laze over lunch before starting
back for the airstrip. I cast one last long took at the sentinel palm trees
along the soft powdery sands and the sublimes turquoise waters beyond. A sense
of isolation reigned over the picturesque scene that could have been a muse for
a poet. Carrying this visual feast in my memory I felt, but with aching longing
to be back some day. Mafia Island is truly an affair to remember.
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